How to choose your first expedition to 8000 metres

Reaching a summit above 8000 metres is a dream for many mountaineers. It is a unique human and physical adventure, an immersion at high altitude where every step counts, where effort blends with wonder. But among the fourteen "8000ers" on the planet, some are more accessible than others for a first expedition.

Beyond altitude, it is a matter of complex logistics and rigorous physical and mental preparation to face common challenges: acute mountain sickness (AMS), extreme weather conditions, intense cold – which can reach or exceed −30° to −40° – managing load-carrying and accumulated fatigue.

At Expeditions Unlimited, every year we guide mountaineers towards their first summit above 8000 metres. If you are thinking of taking the plunge, three options stand out: Manaslu (8163 m) in Nepal, Cho Oyu (8201 m) and Shishapangma (8027 m) in Tibet.

Here is our detailed guide to help you choose the summit that suits you best. For our part, we provide professional supervision, experienced guides, flawless logistics and expert weather and medical support.

Three giants, three characters

Manaslu – 8163 metres (Nepal)

Located in the Gorkha region of central Nepal, Manaslu is the eighth-highest summit in the world. The approach takes eight days along a beautiful trekking route that passes through many traditional villages. The classic route follows the north-east shoulder, with 4 high-altitude camps.

Ascent: from base camp (4850 m) to Camp 4 (7400 m)
From base camp, we set off towards Camp 1 at 5900 metres. This first stage crosses glacial moraines and crevasse zones, requiring a good familiarity with glacier travel. Steady but avalanche-exposed slopes lead to Camp 2 at 6400 metres, set up on a glacial plateau. The trickiest sections are equipped with fixed ropes. The slopes steepen to lead to Camp 3 at 6800 metres, which offers breathtaking views. One more effort and we reach Camp 4 at 7400 metres. This is the final assault camp, from which mountaineers launch their summit attempt.

Summit push : it involves a long climb up snow and ice slopes. The summit section is characterised by an exposed ridge leading to the fore-summit (8156 m), requiring great caution and good crampon technique. The "true" summit of Manaslu is separated from the fore-summit, where many mountaineers stop, by a thin corniced ridge, beyond which one must descend to a small col at the foot of the summit. A further fifteen metres or so to climb lead to the peak of Manaslu at 8163 metres.

Highlights: Nepalese atmosphere, magnificent approach trek, good gradual acclimatisation. Potential rescues well organised thanks to the helicopters available in Nepal.
Manaslu is considered by many to be an excellent gateway into the world of the 8000ers.

Caution: the summit is tricky. The final ridge is long and corniced, and many mountaineers stop at the "false summit". Recurring avalanches in certain areas.

If you would like to learn more about the history of the ascent of Manaslu, be sure to read on our blog The ascent of Manaslu: an incredible epic.

Cho Oyu – 8201 metres (Tibet)

The sixth-highest summit in the world, Cho Oyu, nicknamed "the turquoise goddess", is considered the most accessible of the 8000ers. Located on the Sino-Nepalese border, it is renowned for its relatively moderate slopes and its technically undemanding normal route. It is climbed via its north-west face. Base camp is reached directly by vehicle.

Ascent: from base camp (4900 m) to Camp 3 (7600 m)

From base camp, an easy climb to advanced base camp at 5600 metres. It is from ABC that the ascent really begins. The climb up the snow slopes leading to Camp 1 (6400 m) presents no difficulty. Next comes the crossing of the Ice Cliff (a serac barrier) between Camp 1 and Camp 2 (7200 m), the most technical section, equipped with fixed ropes. Steady progress between Camp 2 and Camp 3 (7600 m), located at the foot of the Yellow Band, a limestone step that blocks access to the summit plateau.

Summit Push : from Camp 3, you must climb the rocks of the Yellow Band (fixed ropes over 150 metres) to reach the broad snow plateau, which is little exposed to avalanche risk.

Highlights: very high success rate, steady route, limited objective risk. Ideal as a first 8000er.

Caution: the administrative conditions for accessing Tibet can be unpredictable. The altitude makes itself felt right from the start of advanced base camp (5600 m). The absence of helicopters in Tibet means having to travel by road to the Nepalese border before being able to take a helicopter flight to Kathmandu, which makes any rapid rescue almost impossible.

To learn all about the first ascent of Cho Oyu, be sure to read our account Cho Oyu: the clandestine conquest.

Shishapangma – 8027 metres (Tibet)

The fourteenth and last of the summits above eight thousand metres, it is the only one located entirely within Tibetan territory. Less frequented, it offers a more intimate experience. The classic route follows the north shoulder. Historically less visited than Cho Oyu, its popularity has grown in recent years, notably because of its lower altitude, which can make it psychologically more accessible. The approach to Shishapangma is similar to that of Cho Oyu, with access by 4×4 vehicle to base camp (BC) located at 4900 metres above sea level. The track continues to advanced base camp, which we follow on foot with a caravan of yaks.

Ascent: from advanced base camp (ABC – 5550 m) to Camp 3 (7400 m)

From ABC, the normal route on the north face runs mainly over glacier and snow slopes. Access to Camp 1 (6300 m) is guarded by crevasse zones, requiring cautious progress and the installation of bridges or ladders. Steady slopes lead to Camp 2 at 6900 metres, a camp well protected from avalanche risk. A further 500 metres must be climbed to reach Camp 3, at 7400 metres, from which the final assault begins.

Summit Push : the main distinctive feature of Shishapangma lies in its two summits: the central summit (8008 m) and the main summit (8027 m), separated by a long ridge. The normal route of commercial expeditions generally leads to the central summit. Reaching the main summit requires a long traverse on the north-west face across slopes that can prove unstable. The central summit is then avoided. For safety reasons, many expeditions consider reaching the central summit to be a success in itself.

Highlights: isolation, beauty of the setting, summit often in good conditions.

Caution: an important distinction between the central summit (where many stop) and the true main summit, which is more technical and exposed. The absence of helicopters in Tibet means having to travel by road to the Nepalese border before being able to take a helicopter flight to Kathmandu, which makes any rapid rescue almost impossible.

Altitude, access and acclimatisation

Note: contrary to popular belief, the base camps of Cho Oyu and Shishapangma are not located in the same place. They lie in two different valleys of Tibet, about 90 kilometres apart.