Expeditions Unlimited blog
I have been climbing mountains for thirty years, and until now, Kilimanjaro had never appealed to me, probably because of its 40,000 to 50,000 annual trekkers. However, when Amaury told me about his plan to go there with his son Foucauld, starting with the ascent of Mount Kenya (around 15,000 trekkers per year), I thought it was an opportunity to return to East Africa, which I love so much, almost as a family. I also wanted to share, from the inside, the experience of the dozens of travelers who go there every year and who, without exception, come back enchanted. Now I understand why!
The idea of attempting Batian Peak at 5,199 meters—the true summit of Mount Kenya—added a wonderful challenge to this trip. And in the end, the only risk I was taking was being pleasantly surprised by these two legendary African climbs. Because yes, there were people on Kilimanjaro, but far from the crowds I had imagined, and it was honestly very bearable given the size of the mountain. And on Mount Kenya, we were almost alone. Overall, the local teams were incredibly kind and obsessed with making us happy. As for the landscapes, they are truly magnificent.
Here is my illustrated travel journal.
Translated with DeepL.com (free version)
Day 1 – Arrival in Nairobi
The arrival in Nairobi is as chaotic as usual: no welcome sign to be found, a dense crowd, and overly pushy service providers. We quickly make our way to our hotel, the Four Points by Sheraton, which I highly recommend!
Mount Kenya Park Entrance © Eric Bonnem
Day 2 – Transfer to Chogoria Gate (2,950 m) then trek to Camp 1 (3,300 m)
Early in the morning, Boniface – “Bonnie” – our guide, joins us at 7:30 a.m. Amaury comes down an hour later, still finishing up his last emails... Experience has taught me patience, and there's not much at stake today. After a few stops in town for SD cards and batteries, we leave Nairobi at 10:30 a.m. The road passes through Embu, punctuated by countless poorly marked speed bumps that make us bounce more than once.
We arrive at the entrance to Mount Kenya National Park, where we complete the formalities and then have lunch facing the forest. Another forty minutes on a bumpy track, and we reach Chogoria Gate at 2,950 meters, where we abandon the vehicles to continue on foot. Crossing fields and bamboo forests, the vegetation thins out and after a good two hours we arrive at a magnificent camp. Moses, the chief, welcomes us with his 18 porters, providing impeccable service. The first night at 3,300 meters promises to be a little restless due to the altitude.
Camp 1 on Mount Kenya © Eric Bonnem
Day 3 – To Michaelson Lake (3,900 m)
The weather is clear at sunrise, but quickly clouds over and the wind chills the ridges. We enjoy a splendid landscape, walking on a rocky promontory overlooking the Gorges Valley. After 6 or 7 hours of walking, we arrive at a steep trail that leads us to the shore of Lake Michaelson, where we will spend the night. We quickly lose 200 meters that we will have to regain the next day. But the effort is worth it: the site is magnificent, the birds are singing, the hyraxes are bustling about, and the British are even fishing for trout, after reaching the summit last night!
Gorges Valley © Eric Bonnem
There are perhaps two or three groups, about ten people in total. I feel tired, with an oxygen saturation level just below 80, which earns me a questioning look from Bonnie. “It's okay, Bonnie, I know myself!” We are still at 3,900 meters after two nights.
Camping on the shores of Lake Michaelson © Eric Bonnem
Jour 4 – To Simba Camp (4,600 m)
We leave the lake via a stunning gorge. After three hours of walking, Simba Camp appears behind a pass, ideally located for the summit. The weather has deteriorated slightly with the altitude and it is drizzling/snowing. Of course, at 4,600 meters, it is colder. The summit push for Lenana Peak is scheduled for 5 a.m. I sleep fairly well, waking up only once to urinate under a perfectly clear sky. The Southern Cross is my only point of reference. At the equator, the Big Dipper is half visible and the North Star is too low on the horizon.
Simba camp © Eric Bonnem
Day 5 – Trekking Summit of Mount Kenya (4,985 m) then Shipton Camp (4,300 m)
The full moon lights up our departure. The climb requires a few easy steps between the rocks. At dawn, the sun sets the peaks ablaze: a magical moment. We reach Lenana Point at 7 a.m., alone, enjoying 45 minutes of bliss. It's a very emotional moment for my friends, who take out their little banner for the first time to take lots of photos and videos. Lenana Peak is the third highest peak on Mount Kenya, and the only one accessible by trek.
Towards Lenana Peak, looking east towards the sunrise © Eric Bonnem
The descent is tougher, the scree unstable, but the joy of being there accompanies us. We reach a delightful stream in the Afro-alpine vegetation, which we follow. Shipton Camp (4,300 m) finally welcomes us, in an idyllic meadow behind the refuge, which seems quite nice but is undoubtedly less comfortable than our camp. The organization is impeccable, Boniface admirable. At the end of the afternoon, I meet David, who will guide me tomorrow on Batian, the true summit of Mount Kenya at 5,199 meters. A guide in training, Eric, will also be joining us.
Lenana Peak at 4,985 meters © Bonie
Day 6 – Attempt to reach the true summit, Batian (5,199 m), then Old Moses (3,300 m)
Wake up at 4:30 a.m., departure at 5 a.m. with David and Eric, my two guides for this adventure. We arrive at the foot of the wall around 6:30 a.m. The first rays of sunlight are appearing. The north face, which benefits from the summer sun in the northern hemisphere, stands before us, impressive. David explained to me the day before that it's about 20 pitches of fairly vertical climbing, each 20 to 30 meters long, that it will probably take us 6 to 7 hours to climb, and that in any case, at 1 p.m., we'll have to turn back wherever we are on the mountain. What really dampened my spirits was when he explained that the descent by abseiling would take longer than the ascent. In short, we would probably be coming down around 10 p.m., which explained the little points of light I had seen on the face late yesterday evening. The first pitch is already demanding. I can't find any handholds, and David is nowhere in sight to guide me. This isn't going to be easy... I quickly realize that the route is too challenging for me. Even if I make it to the summit, which is unlikely, it will take me nearly 18 hours of non-stop physical effort... It's not reasonable, so I give up.
Climbing the north face of Mount Kenya © Eric Bonnem
Once back at camp, David explains to me that Nelion (the second peak at 5,188 meters), which is attempted via the south face in winter (for us in the northern hemisphere), is more direct, safer, and faster, both on the ascent and descent. And once at the summit of Nelion, it is possible to reach Batian Peak via the iconic Gate of Mist in a 3-4 hour round trip... Near Nelion, there is also a small refuge for 2 to 3 people, the Howell Hut, where you can rest before crossing the Gate or descending, or simply take shelter from afternoon showers and storms... In total, out of 15,000 trekkers, only 200 reach Nelion and around 50 climbers reach the true summit of Mount Kenya, Batian... That's 0.3%. I was a little presumptuous. I'm going to train and come back!
Camp facing the north side of Mount Kenya (Nelion Peak, Batian Peak) © Eric Bonnem
My companions began descending towards Old Moses (3,300 m) while I was climbing, as they have to reach Nairobi tomorrow to be in Amboseli the day after tomorrow, a legendary park where elephants and giraffes graze in the savannah in front of the eternal snows of Kilimanjaro... when the “Shining Mountain,” Chaga in Swahili, can be seen, which is rare.
Mont Kenya from Sirimon Route © Eric Bonnem
I arrive at the deserted camp, as most of the team has already descended, and enjoy a hearty breakfast with a view of the north face of Mount Kenya. I had planned a weather reserve day for Batian, but I decide to go to the last camp, Old Moses, on the same day, accompanied by our second guide, Peter, who is also excellent. I plan to take a day off in Nairobi and meet our friend Jean-Yves Marteau, Tamera's partner for our safaris and a formidable expert on the traditional peoples of Africa as far as Lake Turkana and beyond. Probably tired, I twisted my ankle at the entrance to my tent... The walk to Old Moses, which should have taken four or five hours, seemed endless, and we arrived at the camp after seven hours. The rain intensified, but the welcome at the camp warmed us up.
View of Shipton Camp and the Sirimon Route © Eric Bonnem
Entering via the Chogoria route and exiting via Sirimon, we had the privilege of making a magnificent east-west crossing. The decision to camp at Lake Michaelson was Bonnie's initiative. Well done to him, it was wonderful. The food prepared by our chef Moses was absolutely amazing! The whole team, managed by another Eric, with around twenty people, made this first trip a fabulous adventure.
The entire Kenyan team © Foucauld de la Lance
Day 7 – Return to Nairobi
Departure at 9 a.m., arrival at 1:45 p.m. after a five-hour drive. Nairobi plunges us back into its traffic jams, black smoke, and congested roundabouts. At the airport, security is omnipresent: reminder, it is forbidden to drive after 6 p.m. with tourists.
Day 8 – Day with Jean-Yves in Nairobi
Jean-Yves picks me up at the hotel in his extended Toyota Land Cruiser. We talk at length about his life here, about Kenya, which I fell in love with at first sight, touched by the kindness of its people and the level of excellence provided by all the professionals I have met. This part of East Africa, between Kenya, Tanzania, and Uganda, is truly captivating. We set off for a beautiful coffee plantation on the outskirts of the city. It's been a wonderful day in your company, Jean-Yves. Asante sana! “Thank you very much” in Swahili.
Summit of Kilimanjaro above the sea of clouds seen from an airplane © Eric Bonnem
Day 9 – Arrival at Kilimanjaro Airport and transfer to Moshi
This morning, a short 35-minute flight from Nairobi to Kilimanjaro Airport, above a sea of clouds from which the silhouette of Kili's summit quickly but timidly emerges. The scene is set, we will only see the sun once we are above 3,000 meters on the mountain! Quick and pleasant formalities at this small airport. My driver Moussa was waiting for me at the exit. There were spelling mistakes on the welcome sign, which was rather cheap, so it's high time we made some progress in this area!
An hour's drive, with roadworks at the start, before reaching Chanya Lodge, a charming and relaxing green oasis at the foot of Kilimanjaro, just outside Moshi, on the southern slope of the mountain. I meet up with Amaury and Foucauld, who crossed the border on foot, enjoying a beautiful safari in Amboseli... but without Kilimanjaro, hidden in the mist... Two of our three guides join us, Kelvin and Fazzer, for a briefing that is frighteningly precise. I sense that they are a little stressed. Perhaps it was the presence of the boss of the French agency? Wilbert, my partner, also came so that I could pay him the supplement for the Kosovo camp, a small camp that we finally decided to set up just above Barafu on the Machame route, to gain two hours in the summit push. Thanks again, Jean-Manuel (private thanks!).
Machame Gate © Eric Bonnem
Day 10 – Transfer to Machame Gate (1,800 m) then trek to Machame Camp (3,000 m)
The transfer was scheduled for 9 a.m. this morning, but check-out took forever and we left the hotel around 9:30 a.m. We made several stops along the way to pick up water bottles, jackets and gaiters, batteries, and Coca-Cola for my friends. The minibus isn't very luxurious, with nine of us crammed in plus our driver Moussa, but the atmosphere is good and our carbon footprint on this transfer is well optimized.
Arriving at Machame Gate (1,800 m) around 11:15 a.m., we meet the team: Mateyo, head guide, David, head chef, lots of porters and other helpers... Another team of about twenty people for the three of us. It's very impressive! Eighty percent of the team is from the Chaga ethnic group. I ask Fazzer to brief me for a few minutes on the French agencies present at Kili and ask him questions about the American ones, in the more upscale and privatized segment, such as Expeditions Unlimited. They all “send” several hundred customers a year. Let's just say that it's a little more industrial than our more intimate organization, which is how I like it. He explains to me that his people, the Chaga, are the most educated and prosperous ethnic group and that they live mainly on the southern and eastern slopes of Kilimanjaro, in northern Tanzania.
In the forest towards Machame Camp © Eric Bonnem
The permit formalities, preparation, and weighing for the team all take quite a bit of time. We leave the gate on foot at around 1:15 p.m. after an X-ray check: alcohol, weapons, and drones, I suppose... What organization!
We begin our walk through the rainforest on a trail, surrounded by mist. With Mount Kenya behind us, this first stage is a gentle stroll that allows us to soak up the environment of giant fig trees, rubber trees, and tree ferns, where we catch glimpses of a few monkeys.
In the forest towards Machame Camp © Eric Bonnem
At the end of the day, we arrive at Machame Camp at 3,000 meters, on the edge of the forest. We discover our camp, set apart from dozens of others scattered throughout the forest, but unique in the size of its tents and the space we occupy on the ground. Our friends do things right! Briefing in the mess tent, where a snack is of course already served, briefing in the absolutely luxurious toilet tent and introduction to its manager, who is as vigilant as a toilet attendant in a Japanese airport, and our individual tents: almost the size of a mess tent for us alone, in which we can stand upright, with a vestibule for our bags and a bench for taking off our shoes. Camp bed, mattress, pillow, small blanket... I asked out of curiosity: each tent weighs 20 kilos and requires a single porter... A little absurd, but at the same time, I appreciate this luxury, which shows our attention to detail and how we stand out from the crowd. I have never seen anything so elegant anywhere else in the mountains.
Towards Machame Camp © Eric Bonnem
Day 11 – To Shira Camp (3,750 m)
Departure from camp. The trail quickly becomes steeper. The forest cover becomes sparser, gradually replaced by giant heather and strange ragworts, motionless guardians of the mountain. We begin to enjoy splendid views of the southern face of Kilimanjaro, Mount Meru, and the rainforest below.
View of Mount Meru at 4,566 meters © Eric Bonnem
At a bend in the path, we had a delightful surprise: the team had set up tea time for us at a lookout point off the trail, with a tablecloth, chairs, steaming cups, and petits fours—an unexpected luxury on the austere trail. The trekkers passing by a few meters away stared in amazement. It must be an official delegation, they said to themselves! Almost every day, choosing the most magical spot along our route, our team showed us this thoughtful gesture. We were quite moved. Too much is too much... But we'll get used to it in the end!
Surprise from our Tanzanian team © Eric Bonnem
Arriving in the early afternoon at Shira Camp (3,750 m), we gaze up at Mount Meru, rising out of the clouds in the distance. After lunch and a rest, we set off in the late afternoon for the ancient Shira Caves, where the porters slept until about thirty years ago. Fortunately, they now sleep in a large tent in our camp, but this reminds us of the harshness of past climbs.
View from Shira Camp on Shira Cone © Eric Bonnem
From a magnificent promontory, where we meet a lovely Dutch family who have come to Kili as a group, all courtesy of the grandfather who is there, we enjoy a splendid view of the southwestern face of Kilimanjaro and Mount Meru opposite behind us. Not far away, we see Shira, the third volcanic cone of Kilimanjaro, which rises to 3,962 meters and gives its name to the camp. Below, other routes converge at Shira II: the Lemosho, which is quite wild and less frequented, joins the Machame at Barranco, as does the Great Traverse route, which we particularly appreciate because it allows for better acclimatization in nine days, two days longer than the Machame. It follows a long northern loop overlooking Kenya and the Amboseli plains, skirting the crater towards even more solitary slopes to circle the mountain and reach the summit.
View from Shira Camp on Mount Meru and the Shira cone © Eric Bonnem
Every evening, our three guides take turns in the mess tent to give us a detailed briefing on the next day's program, test our oxygen saturation and heart rate, and ask us a few questions about our health. Every morning, we are woken up at the time set the night before with a small tray and coffee or tea, before going to the mess tent for a more substantial breakfast. Then we set off for the day from a perfectly set up camp and arrive a few hours later at another perfectly set up camp! We don't even see our porters overtaking us... It's magical! Every day, I am amazed by this well-oiled team who take such good care of us. I can see how satisfied our customers are at every moment.
Day 12 – To Barranco Camp (3,950 m) via Lava Tower (4,600 m)
A demanding day. Five hours of gradual climbing to Lava Tower (4,600 m), not without stopping for a “little surprise,” as the team calls it, along the way: a table set with a tablecloth, tea, coffee, cakes, etc. Lava Tower is a magnificent site where we have lunch; it's a little high up, at 4,600 meters, so the teams are always a little nervous for their clients. Given our exceptional acclimatization, we enjoy every moment.
Southwest face of Mount Kilimanjaro © Eric Bonnem
The landscape is more rocky, and I chat with our guides. No, we can no longer climb the hill known as Lava Tower, because the rock is poor quality and there have been accidents. It's a shame, as it would have reconciled me with climbing; it seemed much shorter and easier than Batian! We are on the south side of Kilimanjaro, and I look at the route known as the Western Breach, which is impressive and steep, leading directly to the summit and now very rarely attempted. Below is Arrow Glacier Camp, the base camp for those attempting this route. As we descend a few hours later, there is an explosion and a few “buses and other mineral refrigerators” come down the route in an impressive cloud of dust. Well, we wish good luck to those who are on it. Fortunately, no one is there at this time of day, it's far too late.
Lava Tower © Eric Bonnem
Two hours of descent to Barranco. The porters took a more direct route, bypassing Lava Tower, and are already waiting for us. The camp is set up. Another magnificent day.
We are now well above the clouds, and the blue sky will remain with us for almost the entire duration of our ascent. Only the clouds that rise at the end of the day darken the sky a little, but they quickly give way to sublime starry skies in the early evening. Then, every night, the Southern Cross appears, and I think of my father, who has talked to me about it with such enthusiasm since I was a child. He even went to Reunion Island with my mother so he could see it once in his lifetime.
South face of Mount Kilimanjaro © Eric Bonnem
Day 13 – Barranco Wall to Karanga Camp (4,000 m)
This morning, we started the day at the famous Barranco Wall: 1.5 hours of fun, smooth climbing with no traffic jams—perfect timing. At the top of the wall, the view of the southeast face of Kilimanjaro is breathtaking.
Barranco Wall © Eric Bonnem
We arrive fairly early at Karanga at 4,000 meters. The afternoon is a little long and quiet. A quick game of backgammon with Foucauld, who sees me victorious twice... We won't be bringing the game out again! I'm coming down with a cold, which I cure with a nice little nap in my high-altitude loft. The excitement of the summit, which we cannot see from the start because it is hidden by the crater rim. We know it is just behind us. A long and perfect night before the next one, which will be shorter with the summit push.
South face of Mount Kilimanjaro © Eric Bonnem
Day 14 – To Kosovo Camp (4,900 m) via Barafu (4,700 m)
A fairly short but intense day, with steep climbs and descents, to Barafu at 4,700 meters, the starting point for 99% of expeditions to the summit. Except that we decided to climb another 200 meters higher to a tiny camp on a viewpoint called Kosovo. This perfect camp allows us to pass a small wall at the exit of Barafu and perhaps gain two hours during the long summit push, as well as avoid this steeper section at around 2 a.m.
Our three guides Fazzer, Kelvin, Mateyo, and I in front of Mount Kilimanjaro © Eric Bonnem
We take a break at Barafu at 4,700 meters, enjoying a sublime view of Mawenzi and Kibo (the main crater) before joining our team for lunch at Kosovo. For the record, Kilimanjaro is the highest isolated volcanic massif in the world and is formed of three distinct volcanic cones: Kibo, whose highest point is Uhuru Peak (5,895 meters), which we are aiming for, is the youngest cone and the only one that is still potentially active (visible fumaroles). The mythical Mawenzi, because it is where the sun rises when climbers are at the summit. At an altitude of 5,149 meters, it is older, eroded, with steep, jagged ridges. It can be climbed, but the climb is a bit challenging. And finally, the Shira cone, the oldest and most eroded of the three, which I mentioned earlier.
It should be noted that very recently, there are now DZs, helicopter landing areas, at all the camps—I think of this because that's where I see our first helicopter landing to pick up a porter, I think, because we are a few hundred meters away—and this is good for the general safety of trekkers and local teams.
Between Barafu Camp and Kosovo Camp © Eric Bonnem
At the end of the day, it's time for the long-awaited comprehensive briefing: equipment, organization, and timing for our departure for the summit the following night.
Mount Meru from Kosovo Camp after sunset © Eric Bonnem
Day 15 – Kilimanjaro summit at 5,895 meters, then descent to Millennium Camp (3,800 m)
Wake up at 12:30 a.m. with a quick coffee in the tent—we're not breaking any habits. We decided not to stress about our planned 1:45 a.m. departure. The sun will rise regardless, during the climb up Mawenzi, and the idea of arriving too early and waiting for the sun like tourists in the cold doesn't appeal to us! And we are two hours ahead of the many people who are starting from Barafu. The climb is steady, with no surprises. Foucauld is struggling a little, as he has been carrying a slight cold for a few days... but we reach Stella Point at 5,756 meters without any problems at around 6:30 a.m.
Summit Push approaching Stella Point at sunrise with Mawenzi cone behind © Eric Bonnem
Then, following the rim of the crater, we reach the summit at Uhuru Peak at 5,895 meters, shortly before 8 a.m. The light and the view are magnificent, with a little icy snow that doesn't require our crampons on the ridge, a few remnants of glaciers here and there, and good snow in the crater. We congratulate each other, my friends take out the small banner of their association “Les Grands Vivants” which I grab and hold upside down for the first series of photos. They take my small Expeditions Unlimited banner. It's a beautiful moment, there are about twenty of us at the summit at this moment and the groups take turns in front of the wooden summit sign to immortalize the moment. I also meet up with Emiel, a friendly young man from the Dutch family, some of whom were unable to reach the summit.
Arrival at Stella Point at sunrise with the Mawenzi cone behind © Eric Bonnem
I leave my friends at the summit and decide to go for a walk with guide Kelvin to Gilman's Point at 5,681 meters, on the other side of the crater and the summit arrival point from the north and east via several climbing routes, such as the Marangu (Coca-Cola), Great Crossing, or Rongai routes. The path surprises me a little, as I find it quite winding and sometimes steep. It takes us 1.5 hours to get there and back from Stella Point, the arrival and descent point of the Machame route.
Remains of a glacier from the rim of the Kibo crater © Eric Bonnem
The descent from Stella is quite challenging, an hour and a half through ash and then scree slopes, which we hurtle down with Kelvin like skiers, sliding on our shoes at a good pace. My quadriceps are starting to burn when we arrive in Kosovo at around 11 a.m. I meet up with our friends there and we have a proper breakfast.
A quick nap, a snack, then we descend in two hours to our next camp, Millennium, at 3,800 meters. Another innovation on the route, when most groups descend directly to Mweka Camp (3,100 meters), which we will reach the next day, before leaving the park at Mweka Gate (1,700 meters).
Stopping at Millennium saves us two hours on Mweka and, in total, with the previous day's climb to Kosovo, we save nearly four hours on this long summit push day, which took us 10 hours, compared to 14 hours for the other groups.
Summit of Kilimanjaro © Eric Bonnem
What more can I say about our intense journey? It was a complete success for us and the teams, a gentleness I didn't expect to find on the slopes of Kilimanjaro... Beauty and kindness, intelligence and service at every moment. Thank you to everyone, especially Amaury and Foucauld, for taking me on this great adventure.
The entire Tanzanian team © Eric Bonnem