Expeditions Unlimited blog
Three major peaks in Central Asia, three confirmed expeditions for next summer, and the same conviction as ever: high-altitude climbing cannot be improvised. In 2026, we are setting off once again for Lenin Peak (7,134 m), Khan Tengri (7,010 m) and Mustagh Ata (7,546 m). Each of these expeditions is led by one of our experienced French expedition leaders. We always allow extra time to ensure better acclimatisation and to provide a buffer against the sometimes unpredictable weather. Ultimately, we aim for a safe expedition, free from haste or stress. These expeditions are designed for those who are passionate about these high peaks, who possess mountaineering knowledge and experience, and, of course, excellent physical fitness. The teams are now being finalised, and we look forward to welcoming those who wish to embark on this demanding yet magnificent adventure.
Climb of Lenin Peak at 7,134 metres – my first 7,000-metre peak!
We’re heading back to Lenin Peak, or Abu Ali Ibn Sina, a magnificent mountain whose summit is often—and somewhat flippantly, and therefore incorrectly—regarded as the most accessible 7,000-metre peak in the world. Our success rate is quite high, at around 70%. We allow 4 to 6 days longer than most operators, which makes for a more relaxed expedition, provides more time for acclimatisation to enable as many people as possible to reach the summit, and, of course, offers greater weather security. We are led by an experienced French high-mountain guide, assisted by a local high-mountain guide during the summit push. We follow the normal route, which is physically demanding during the summit attempt. We reached the summit in 2018, 2021, 2022 and 2025 with eight summiteers plus our guides.
Departure confirmed for 19 July 2026, €5,900
Climb up Lenin Peak © Serge Bazin
Climbing Khan Tengri at 7,010 metres, our third Snow Leopard
We are continuing our Snow Leopard Challenge, following numerous attempts on Lenin Peak and our successful summit of Korjenevskaya in 2023, with the ascent of Khan Tengri. At a ‘mere’ 7,010 metres, it could well be the easiest peak in the Snow Leopard Challenge. But its modest height is more than offset by the sheer difficulty of the climb. The “Little K2”, as it is nicknamed by mountaineers who know the mountain well. The north face, steeper but significantly less exposed to objective hazards than the south face, offers a long and safe route. It requires climbing to the summit of Chapaev, before descending to the western saddle where we rejoin the normal route. Access to base camp is now greatly facilitated by helicopter flights. The main obstacle remains the weather. The proximity of Siberia on one side and the Taklamakan Desert on the other gives rise to violent, cold winds
Departure confirmed for 19 July 2026, €8,500
Climb up Khan Tengri © Jean-Marc Porte
Ascent of Mustagh Ata (7,546 metres), high-altitude ski touring
We are therefore attempting to climb Mustagh Ata, or Muztaga, at 7,546 metres – known as the ‘Father of the Ice Mountains’ in Kazakh and Uyghur – a magnificent, isolated peak situated between the Pamir and Kunlun ranges in Xinjiang, on the border with Pakistan. Its altitude, at over 7,500 metres without oxygen, makes it good preparation and a test for a first 8,000-metre peak, or even the ascent of Everest. It is the highest peak that can be climbed and skied down without being an exceptional skier. We’re following the standard route, which is technically very accessible. It’s been a long time since we last went there. In 2019, our expedition saw eight participants reach the summit. So we’re heading back with a group of skiers next July. The cold and the wind could spoil the party.
Departure confirmed for 12 July 2026, €8,900
Climbing Mustagh Ata © Anne-Claire Jude