Highlights
- Climb one of the world’s most iconic and coveted peaks
- Lobuche East ascent for optimal acclimatization
- One high-altitude Sherpa per climber
- Led by an experienced Expedition Leader
- Dedicated European weather forecasting support
- Pre-expedition training weekend included
- 24/7 IFREMMONT medical support hotline
We set out to climb one of the world’s most beautiful and iconic mountains: Ama Dablam. For decades, it has captivated climbers and trekkers alike as they passed while exploring Nepal’s Khumbu region. Its elegant summit pyramid has inspired countless mountaineering ambitions. Rising to 6,856 m, Ama Dablam is considered one of the great prizes of high-altitude mountaineering. Its ascent is technical, demanding, and reserved for experienced climbers. To maximize both safety and summit success, each participant is supported by a dedicated high-altitude Sherpa. Acclimatization is achieved through the ascent of Lobuche East (6,119 m). Throughout the expedition, we are supported by a highly experienced local team, backed by 24/7 medical assistance from IFREMMONT and professional weather forecasting services based in Europe, both among the best in their respective fields.
Overview
Ama Dablam translates as “Mother’s Necklace.” The name refers to the traditional double-pendant worn by Sherpa women, while the mountain’s long ridges are said to resemble the protective arms of a mother embracing her child.
Our objective is to reach the 6,856 m (22,493 ft) summit via the Southwest Ridge, the standard route first climbed in 1961 by Mike Gill, Barry Bishop, Mike Ward, and Wally Romanes.
Located in Nepal’s Khumbu region beneath Everest and Lhotse, Ama Dablam is widely regarded as one of the most beautiful mountains on Earth. Its elegant shape, technical character, and exceptional setting have made it one of the world’s most sought-after alpine objectives.
Although the route is achievable for experienced mountaineers, Ama Dablam remains a demanding climb. Limited campsite capacity and the mountain’s narrow ridge mean that, even in favorable weather, only a relatively small number of climbers can attempt the summit each day.
Discover our animated route map of the Ama Dablam expedition
THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE
Unlike many Himalayan peaks, Ama Dablam has no easy route. The Southwest Ridge is the mountain’s natural line of weakness and has become the standard route to the summit.
The ascent and descent follow the same route along an exposed ridge of rock, mixed terrain, and snow. One of the route’s major advantages is its relatively low objective hazard compared with many other Himalayan climbs.
Three high camps are established along the ridge. Camp 3 is located immediately below the summit glacier but outside the potential serac fall zone.
Our Sherpa team installs fixed ropes from Camp 1 to the summit before the summit push. Climbers should expect sustained rock climbing up to UIAA Grade V between Camps 1 and 3, together with snow, ice, and mixed terrain at angles generally ranging from 40° to 60°.
While the fixed ropes significantly improve safety and efficiency on both the ascent and descent, this expedition is intended for experienced mountaineers who are fully proficient with fixed-rope techniques, including ascending with a mechanical ascender and descending independently by rappel.
The three high camps are compact and offer limited space. Careful coordination between our guides and the leaders of other expeditions is therefore essential to ensure that all climbers can rest comfortably and move efficiently along the route.
Itinerary
DAYS 1 & 2: EUROPE — KATHMANDU
Day 1
Depart from Europe for Kathmandu. Most flights arrive during the day on Day 2. Upon arrival, you will be welcomed by our local team and transferred to your hotel. The remainder of the day is free to relax or begin exploring the vibrant streets of Kathmandu at your own pace.
DAY 3: KATHMANDU
Day 3
This day is set aside to recover from your journey, complete any remaining administrative formalities, check your personal equipment, and purchase any last-minute items if needed. However, depending on weather conditions, we may choose to operate the domestic flight originally scheduled for the following day immediately upon your arrival in Kathmandu. This flexibility helps maximize our chances of keeping the expedition on schedule.
DAY 4: KATHMANDU — LUKLA & PHAKDING
Day 4
This morning, we fly from Kathmandu to Lukla on one of the world’s most spectacular mountain flights. Upon arrival, we meet our porter team and organize the expedition loads before setting out on foot. The trail descends gently before following the Dudh Kosi (“Milk River”) to the village of Phakding, offering a relaxed first day on the trail.
DAY 5: PHAKDING — NAMCHE BAZAAR
Day 5
We follow the Dudh Kosi upstream through forests of magnificent Himalayan pine, crossing a series of suspension bridges as the trail winds from one side of the river to the other. A steeper climb then brings us to Namche Bazaar, the vibrant capital of the Khumbu and the heart of Sherpa culture. Along the way, we enjoy impressive views of Thamserku, while Everest occasionally reveals itself in the distance. Upon arrival, there is time to explore the lively streets of this remarkable mountainside village, built in a natural amphitheater.
DAY 6: NAMCHE — KHUMJUNG — NAMCHE
Day 6
Today’s acclimatization hike leads us through a small forest before revealing our first panoramic views of the great peaks of the Khumbu, including Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. We continue to the traditional Sherpa villages of Khunde and Khumjung, where, time permitting, we may visit the Khumjung School and the Khunde Hospital, both established through the vision and commitment of Sir Edmund Hillary following the first ascent of Everest.
DAY 7: NAMCHE — TANGBOCHE
Day 7
One of the most scenic days of the trek, with magnificent views across the Himalayan range throughout the day. We reach Tengboche, home to the Khumbu’s most renowned Buddhist monastery, beautifully set on a ridge overlooking the surrounding peaks. Standing at the foot of Ama Dablam, we enjoy our first close-up views of the mountain that will soon become our objective.
DAY 8: TANGBOCHE — DINGBOCHE
Day 8
We continue our gradual ascent through the Khumbu, gaining altitude at a steady pace. Walking slowly and conserving energy are key to effective acclimatization, helping prepare the body for the higher elevations ahead.
DAY 9: DINGBOCHE — LOBUCHE
Day 9
A short acclimatization hike brings us deeper into the upper Khumbu. The trail follows the Imja Khola valley through an increasingly alpine landscape of rock and glacial moraine. Throughout the day, we enjoy spectacular views of Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Island Peak. While the walking remains straightforward, the effects of altitude become more noticeable as we climb. Lobuche offers a true high-mountain atmosphere and provides the ideal setting before tackling our first high-altitude objective.
DAY 10: LOBUCHE — HIGH CAMP LOBUCHE PEAK (5400 M)
Day 10
From today onward, the expedition truly begins. We leave the comfort of the lodges behind and move into our tented camps, where our full expedition team—including our cook and high-altitude Sherpas—joins us. We ascend to High Camp over rocky terrain before spending the afternoon reviewing our equipment and practicing fixed-rope techniques, including the use of a Jumar ascender and rappel device. The remainder of the day is devoted to hydration, rest, and final preparations for the climb ahead. An early night is essential, as our summit day will begin well before dawn.
DAY 11: LOBUCHE HIGH CAMP — LOBUCHE EAST SUMMIT (6,119 m) — LOBUCHE
Day 11
We wake well before dawn for our summit attempt. After an early breakfast, we set off under the stars toward the summit. Unlike many of Nepal’s trekking peaks, Lobuche East is not equipped with fixed ropes for the season. Our Sherpa team secures the technical sections as we climb, allowing us to progress safely across the mountain. By sunrise, we have negotiated the rocky section. While the climbing itself is not particularly difficult, every move requires noticeably more effort at this altitude. Above the rocks, we reach the snow slopes just as the surrounding Himalayan peaks begin to glow in the morning light. Several sections steepen to around 45°, where crampons provide secure footing and the fixed ropes offer valuable assistance. As with all expeditions on Lobuche East, our objective is the 6,119 m fore-summit, as the true summit ridge beyond is considered excessively hazardous. From the top, we are rewarded with an extraordinary panorama of the world’s highest mountains. After taking time to enjoy the views, we descend carefully all the way back to Lobuche, bringing with us unforgettable memories of our first Himalayan summit.
DAY 12: LOBUCHE — PANGBOCHE
Day 12
We descend into the Imja Khola Valley before reaching the Sherpa village of Pangboche. Nestled at the foot of Ama Dablam, the village offers spectacular views of the mountain that now dominates the landscape—and will soon become the focus of our expedition.
DAY 13: PANGBOCHE — AMA DABLAM BASE CAMP
Day 13
Leaving the main trekking trail behind, we ascend to Ama Dablam Base Camp. Set on a broad, grassy plateau, the camp is one of the most pleasant in the Khumbu. From here, we enjoy uninterrupted views of Ama Dablam, whose elegant southwest ridge rises directly above us—a constant reminder of the challenge ahead.
DAY 14: AMA DABLAM BASE CAMP (4,600 m)
Day 14
Ama Dablam Base Camp features a spacious dining tent, a dedicated kitchen tent, toilet facilities, and comfortable individual sleeping tents. Today is devoted to rest and acclimatization, allowing your body to adapt gradually to the altitude. You may choose to relax at camp or enjoy short walks in the surrounding area. Good nutrition plays a key role in a successful expedition, so eating well and staying hydrated are essential.
Before beginning our ascent, we will also take part in a traditional puja ceremony, led by a local lama. During this important Buddhist blessing, the Sherpas ask the mountain deities for protection and safe passage. It is a meaningful and memorable moment, shared by both the Sherpa team and climbers before setting foot on the mountain.
Alternatively, if the group is particularly small, we may choose to base ourselves at the comfortable lodge located about 20 minutes from Base Camp, on the opposite side of the moraine. With its excellent cuisine, heated common room, and welcoming atmosphere, it provides an outstanding level of comfort while maintaining easy access to the mountain.
DAYS 15 TO 24: AMA DABLAM ASCENT
Day 15 to 24
CAMPS ELEVATIONS
- Base Camp: 4,600 m
- Camp 1: 5,800 m
- Camp 2: 6,100 m
- Camp 3: 6,400 m
- Summit: 6,812 m
The schedule below illustrates a typical ascent strategy. In practice, however, the expedition plan is continually adapted to the team’s condition, weather forecasts, and the strategy developed by the Expedition Leader.
The first two days are devoted to completing our acclimatization. We hike toward the Mingbo La Glacier (5,800 m), enjoying outstanding views of Ama Dablam’s entire Southwest Ridge. Nearby, our guides conduct technical training sessions on a vertical rock face. Participants practice ascending steep fixed ropes using a Jumar ascender and review rappel techniques to ensure everyone is fully comfortable with the skills required for the climb.
Following our successful acclimatization on Lobuche East and our previous nights spent above 5,500 m, only two rotations on the mountain are planned before the summit push.
FIRST ROTATION: CAMP 2 AND RETURN TO BASE CAMP
Base Camp – Camp 1 (5,800 m)
The approach to Camp 1 crosses varied terrain of boulders, gullies, and rocky slopes. Depending on conditions, the route may be snow-covered and straightforward or dry, loose, and more demanding underfoot. The final section follows fixed ropes over easy rock before reaching the ridge where Camp 1 is perched at 5,800 m. Although beautifully positioned above the valley, Camp 1 offers limited space, requiring caution whenever moving around outside the tents.
Elevation gain: +1,300 m
Walking time: approximately 7 hours
Overnight altitude: 5,800 m
Camp 1 – Camp 2 (6,100 m) – Return to Base Camp
An early start takes us across steep rock steps, slabs, and exposed ridges equipped with fixed ropes. After approximately 3 to 4 hours, depending on mountain traffic, we reach the famous Yellow Tower, a steep 20-meter wall of golden granite marking the entrance to the mountain’s most technical terrain.
The climbing is sustained, generally ranging from UIAA Grade IV to V, with excellent rock and fixed protection throughout. This is both a physical and psychological crux of the route, and delays caused by other expeditions can occasionally last several hours.
Beyond the Yellow Tower, a narrow ridge leads to Camp 2 (6,100 m). With only a handful of tents dramatically positioned on a narrow ridge, Camp 2 is one of the most spectacular camps in the Himalaya. Because of its exposed location, movement around camp must be kept to a minimum. After a short rest and refreshments, we descend all the way to Base Camp via Camp 1. Several rappels are required during the descent.
Elevation gain: +300 m
Elevation loss: -1,500 m
Climbing time: approximately 4 hours up / 6 hours down
Highest altitude: 6,100 m
SECOND ROTATION AND SUMMIT PUSH
Base Camp – Camp 3 (6,400 m)
Following several days of recovery at Base Camp—depending on our weather window—we begin our summit rotation. Over two days, we climb back through Camps 1 and 2 before continuing toward Camp 3. The section between Camps 2 and 3 is widely regarded as the most demanding part of Ama Dablam.
Immediately above Camp 2, a descending traverse leads to the base of a steep snow and ice couloir. Using crampons and fixed ropes, we climb onto an exposed ridge before negotiating mixed terrain toward the Grey Tower. A sustained 80-meter rock pitch follows, with occasional rockfall hazard from the east face, before reaching the famous Mushroom Ridge, which may be covered in either snow or ice depending on conditions. Several sections reach 60° to 70°, and strong winds are common along this exposed ridge. After approximately seven hours of climbing, we arrive at Camp 3 (6,400 m).
Depending on weather, logistics, and the team’s condition, we may either rest here before the summit attempt or continue higher after a short break. The entire route is protected by fixed ropes.
Elevation gain: +300 m
Climbing time: approximately 7 hours
Highest altitude: 6,100 m
Summit Push
Above Camp 3, the route follows a spectacular snow and ice ridge toward the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m). The ridge is consistently steep, generally between 45° and 60°, and highly exposed. Shortly after leaving camp, we pass beneath Ama Dablam’s famous hanging serac, an iconic feature that requires efficient and disciplined movement. Although technically less demanding than the lower rock sections, the upper mountain remains fully equipped with fixed ropes and requires complete concentration. High winds are frequent, and sound judgment becomes increasingly important as altitude and fatigue combine. Reaching the summit is rewarded with magnificent views of Everest, Lhotse, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and countless surrounding Himalayan peaks. After celebrating our ascent, we descend by rappel along the fixed ropes, returning first to Camp 3 before continuing to Camp 2 or Camp 1, depending on timing and conditions. We spend the night on the mountain before descending to Base Camp the following day.
Elevation gain: +400 m
Climbing time: approximately 4 hours to the summit
Descent: approximately 5 to 7 hours to Camp 2 or Camp 1
We have built four contingency days into the itinerary to accommodate weather delays or other unforeseen circumstances. On the morning of Day 25, we leave Base Camp and begin our trek back down the Khumbu.
Meals: breakfast and dinner at camp; packed lunch during climbing days.
Accommodations: overnight in tents.
Maximum altitude: approximately 6812 m
DAY 25: AMA DABLAM BASE CAMP — TENGBOCHE
Day 25
Leaving Base Camp behind, we descend into the Imja Khola Valley before passing through the Sherpa village of Pangboche. Our trail then leads back to Tengboche, home to the Khumbu’s most important Buddhist monastery. Throughout the day, we enjoy magnificent final views of Ama Dablam, offering a fitting farewell to the mountain we have just climbed.
DAY 26: TENGBOCHE — NAMCHE BAZAAR
Day 26
We continue our descent through the Khumbu Valley, with Ama Dablam remaining in view for much of the day. Along the way, we stop at several traditional lodges to enjoy a well-earned cup of tea before reaching the bustling mountain town of Namche Bazaar, where a comfortable evening awaits.
DAY 27: NAMCHE BAZAAR — LUKLA
Day 27
Our final day on the trail follows the same route back to Lukla. The long descent can be demanding on the knees, but with every step we lose altitude, the air grows richer in oxygen, and breathing becomes noticeably easier. We arrive in Lukla to celebrate the successful completion of our trek and expedition.
DAY 28: LUKLA — KATHMANDU
Day 28
This morning, we board our scenic flight back to Kathmandu. Depending on our arrival time, you will have free time to relax, explore the city, or do some last-minute shopping before the end of the expedition.
DAY 29: KATHMANDU
Day 29
An additional contingency day is built into the itinerary to accommodate possible weather delays or unforeseen circumstances during the climb. If not required on the mountain, this day can be enjoyed at your leisure in Kathmandu, providing time to explore the city, relax, or simply celebrate the successful completion of your expedition.
DAY 30: KATHMANDU — INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE
Day 30
Transfer to Kathmandu International Airport for your onward flight home, bringing an unforgettable Himalayan expedition to a close.
DAY 31: ARRIVAL IN EUROPE
Day 31
END OF EXPEDITION
For reasons that cannot be foreseen at this stage, such as unpredictable weather, the physical fitness or lack of fitness of participants or other circumstancess (customs formalities, road conditions, traffic, landslides, force majeure, etc.), your expedition leader may have to adapt the program, if necessary, to ensure the smooth running of your trip. He remains the sole judge and the one who guarantees your safety. Activity times are given as an indication and may vary from one participant to another.
The itinerary for all our expedition programs, or the ascent program for our high-mountain expeditions, are given here as a guide only. They are flexible enough to adapt to weather conditions with a few contingency days. In any case, you should follow the recommendations of your guide, who may suggest that you cancel your expedition due to weather, safety or physical conditions.
It is important to remember that this is a truly unsupported expedition, and that anything can happen. Expeditions Unlimited, your expedition leader, your guide or our local teams can in no way be held responsible.
Any costs incurred as a result of a change in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation, extra flights) will be borne by the participants and not by the organizers. "Contingency days" refer to the expedition in the strict sense of the term (base camp/base camp in the mountains, departure point/exit point on a traverse, etc.).
Any early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program, will be charged in full to the participants.
Trip notes
Mountaineering expeditions preparation
In the months leading up to the start of your expedition, you will have several formal and informal meetings with us, by telephone, videoconference or in person, depending on the needs of the expedition and the participants.
For this expedition, we have scheduled a meeting for you over a period of about two days, usually around a weekend, in the weeks preceding your departure, in order to carry out technical and practical preparation.
Arrival on the morning of the first day or the day before in the Alps, probably around Chamonix or Saint-Gervais.
During these two days, you can ask the guide any questions you may have. Generally speaking, you will have the opportunity to:
- meet up and exchange experiences;
- spend some time on the field to brush up on basic techniques;
- handle equipment (tents, stoves, etc.) if necessary.
And don't forget our 3 to 5-day preparation course focusing on mountaineering and learning to be self-sufficient or our training course in high-altitude medicine and isolated environments with Ifremmont also proposed as part of our Adventure School.
Meeting point: around 9 a.m. on the first day at your accommodation or at the address we will have given you beforehand.
Transport: you will get to the meeting point on your own (we can organize car pooling, please ask). If you do not live in the area, we recommend you arrive the day before, for peace of mind and to get started on time!
Meals: snacks at lunchtime and dinners at the hotel or restaurant (on your own, not included).
Accommodation: night in a hotel, gîte or chalet. Various types of accommodation are available (on request, not included).
Cost of participants/speakers: included in expedition price.
Guiding
YOUR PRIVATE GUIDE
Key to your success on all our expeditions, we systematically use a ratio of one high-altitude sherpa per participant. He accompanies you during the key moments of the ascent and during the summit push. He is particularly experienced at high altitude. We select him for you. He generally speaks English. He may not be with you all the time during rotations between camps, as his role is also to manage the carrying operations to set up the camps.
A summit bonus is also arranged for your high-altitude sherpa, to be paid in cash on site after the ascent. This bonus is due from the moment you leave the last summit camp on your summit push attempt.
Our team of "altitude sherpas" can be made up of several Nepalese ethnic groups, Sherpa of course, but also Tamang, Gurung, Rai, Bothe, etc.
EXPEDITION LEADER
The expedition leader plays an important role in setting up the logistics of the upper camps and implementing the strategy required for success: rotation in the high-altitude camps, acclimatization of each participant, study of weather reports to decide on the optimum moment to launch the summit push.
The expedition leader represents Expeditions Unlimited to the group, our partners and local authorities. Mainly based at base camp, he may accompany you to the high-altitude camps to oversee the logistics of the expedition. He takes any necessary decisions. His authority is absolute and undeniable. You must respect his decisions, as well as those taken collectively.
From one to five participants, you have a local English-speaking Nepalese expedition leader who has coordinated numerous expeditions to high-altitude peaks. He can be shared with other expeditions. He can also be one of the private guides described above, usually the most experienced. In this case, he combines the two functions of expedition leader and guide (see above).
For groups of six or more participants, an experienced French expedition leader is assigned exclusively to your expedition.
LOCAL TEAM
For a project involving the ascent of a major Himalayan peak, our team is particularly well-staffed to deal as effectively as possible with the two key issues of an expedition: technical supervision and the carrying of equipment (food, collective and personal equipment). This is an important issue, as it directly affects the success of both parties. As a result of more than 10 years of joint reflection and work, our operation is fully optimized and the tasks entrusted to each person determine their own status.
A kitchen staff will be present at base camp.
There is a team of porters who help us set up base camp with all the equipment and cooking facilities. Beyond that, the team of high-altitude sherpas takes over. In particular, they help us to set up the high altitude camps and with the carrying from base camp.
Each participant is responsible for carrying his or her own personal belongings and high-altitude food. Collective equipment is carried by the Nepalese team. Our rucksack will weigh between 10 and 12 kg.
And throughout the program, we will rely on other local skills as needed. Finally, we will have access to personalized weather forecast services and a specialized high-altitude doctor from Ifremmont (see above).
For unpredictable reasons at this stage, like adverse weather conditions, insufficient physical condition of participants, insufficient competencies of participants related to the intended activities, your guide may decide to adjust the intended program and/or activities. At all times, his decision will be final on all matters likely to affect the safety and well-being of the trip.
Difficulty level
Level rated: difficult
This program is aimed at participants in good physical shape, with a significant sport practice, endurance in particular, holding a strong mental to face difficulties that are unforeseen by nature.
This expedition is rated difficult, primarily because of the extreme altitude at which it takes place and the sustained steepness of the mountain. Participants should have solid mountain experience, along with regular practice in hiking, trekking, or mountaineering, and be capable of operating as independently as possible in an alpine environment.
You should be comfortable moving on glaciated terrain, traveling either as part of an independent rope team or roped to your guide, and familiar with basic rope techniques. Throughout the expedition, each climber carries a light daypack containing water, extra clothing, and personal essentials, while all shared equipment and the bulk of the expedition gear are carried by our high-altitude Sherpas.
From a technical standpoint, Ama Dablam is comparable to a D (Difficult) alpine route. A useful reference would be the Traverse of La Meije in the French Alps. The extensive network of fixed ropes and the support of our experienced Sherpas make the climb considerably more accessible than it would otherwise be. Nevertheless, the combination of altitude, cold, wind, and sustained exposure makes this a serious undertaking. Without fixed ropes, sections of the climb would involve rock climbing up to approximately French Grade 6a.
Beyond technical ability, success on Ama Dablam depends on thorough physical and mental preparation. Climbers must be ready to cope with prolonged effort at high altitude, changing weather, cold temperatures, and the inevitable discomfort of expedition life. A positive attitude and strong team spirit are equally important.
Every participant shares responsibility for maintaining a safe and efficient expedition. This includes respecting safety procedures, taking care of personal equipment, contributing to camp life when appropriate, and supporting fellow team members. As with any major expedition, success is built on teamwork.
Participation in our pre-expedition training weekend—the date of which will be announced later—is strongly recommended. Each participant will also be asked to submit a detailed mountaineering, trekking, and sporting résumé so that we can assess their experience and maximize the likelihood of a successful ascent.
For those wishing to further strengthen their skills, mountaineering training courses offered through our Adventure School provide excellent preparation, helping climbers build confidence, improve technical proficiency, and increase self-sufficiency before the expedition.
Finally, all participants benefit, at no additional cost, from 24/7 high-altitude medical support throughout the expedition, provided in partnership with Ifremmont, one of Europe’s leading specialists in expedition medicine. Further details are provided below.
Technical difficulty
MOUNTAINEERING LEVEL: FAIRLY DIFFICULT (AD – ASSEZ DIFFICILE IN FRENCH)
The use of technical mountaineering equipment—including crampons, an ice axe, harness, helmet, ropes, and other climbing gear—is essential. The route involves sustained technical difficulties, including steep to very steep snow and ice terrain, rock climbing up to approximately UIAA Grade IV–V on relatively short pitches, significant exposure, and long periods of continuous effort.
This expedition is therefore intended for experienced mountaineers who have already completed several climbs of a comparable technical standard, even if at lower altitude.
These technical ratings assume normal mountain conditions. As always in alpinism, the level of difficulty can increase significantly due to adverse weather, fresh snow on rock sections, poor ice conditions, or other objective hazards. Likewise, altitude, pack weight, limited infrastructure on the route, accumulated fatigue, and the remoteness of the mountain all contribute to making the climb considerably more demanding than its technical grade alone might suggest.
On Ama Dablam, experience is the single most important factor for success and safety.
Programme sans aérien
We meet up in Kathmandu and are welcomed at the airport by our local teams.
Given the diverse origins of the participants on this trip, international outward and return flights are not included in this package. In most cases, we book flights on your behalf to ensure that the whole group arrives at the destination at the same time. We do not charge any fees for these air bookings. Please do not hesitate to contact us. If you book your own tickets, we will advise you on the ideal flight schedule to enable all participants to arrive within a reduced time frame. At the very least, you need tickets that can be modified.
Accommodations
KATHMANDU AND TREKKING
In a single room in a 3/4* hotel in Kathmandu.During the trek, we will be staying either in individual tents or in lodges. Lodges in Nepal are of very random comfort. Lodges can resemble a refuge or sometimes a gîte back home. Most are family homes with double, triple or dormitory rooms. Toilets and showers are always separate. It is important to check that the water is not heated with wood, as this contributes to deforestation. Most of the time, water is heated using solar energy.
BASE CAMP
At base camp, we stay in individual tents.
As a base for several weeks, it needs to be as comfortable as possible, to enable us to recover properly on our return from the altitude camps. It should also enable us to cope with periods of bad weather in the best possible conditions. Each participant has his or her own individual tent with a comfortable mattress. A heated mess tent is the main living area. Tables and chairs are permanently installed. We also have a shower tent and a toilet tent (solid waste is disposed of in drums).
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
During the ascent, at the altitude camps, we have an altitude tent for 2 people, and even 3 people at the last camps.
Hygiene & laundry
Toilets: The base camp is equipped with toilets and toilet paper. Make sure you wash your hands with a hydro-alcoholic gel (available from your personal pharmacy) after each use of the toilet. For the higher camps, we recommend that you take a bottle with you to urinate in at night, to avoid having to go outside.
Daily hygiene: a basin with soap and water is available at the entrance of the mess tent. Water for washing hands and face; do not drink.
Showers: hot water available (request from kitchen). Showers should only be taken on sunny days to avoid catching cold!
Laundry: (cold) water and basin to be requested from the kitchen. Bring biodegradable products only.
Meals
KATHMANDU
On arrival in Kathmandu, a welcome dinner is offered on the first evening. Similarly, on your return from the expedition, a farewell meal is provided.
In the towns, there are many small (and large) restaurants where you can sample typical local cuisine. With the exception of Kathmandu, breakfasts and evening meals are prepared by the lodge's kitchen staff or cooks and served in the lodge's dining room or mess tent. Depending on the profile of the stages (length of the day's walk and/or presence of water), midday snacks will be served hot or cold in the form of picnics.
BASE CAMP
All meals are prepared by the kitchen staff using local ingredients, including rice, pasta, lentils, potatoes, vegetables, eggs, a little meat, etc. They are served in a private tent. Hot non-alcoholic beverages such as tea and coffee are provided free of charge. We recommend that you stay hydrated at all times.
HIGH ALTITUDE CAMPS
At altitude, you often have to force yourself to eat. The use of freeze-dried food is almost unavoidable. But such dishes, appetizing in the valley, quickly become a source of disgust in high altitude camps. During the preparation course, we bring a sample of lyophilized dishes for you to taste, to indicate your preferences, which we do our utmost to respect (depending on the stocks available at the time of final purchase). You can also bring along a few of your favorite dishes (if you have any)or small snacks that give you pleasure (cold meats, cheese, etc.), or energy bars as the ones on offer locally are sufficient but basic, and so on. Be careful with the weight – we are talking about a kilo in all! For your comfort and the pleasure of tasting, we have included a few "delicacies" from France (savoury and sweet).
Each tent has a stove for melting snow (MSR Reactor type) and making water for freeze-dried food and hot drinks. The necessary gas cartridges are supplied..
HYDRATION
Take along tablets (such as Hydroclonazone, Micropur or others) to disinfect the water you put in your water bottle, depending on the source and on the advice of your guide. It is sometimes possible to buy purified water and fill your bottle without having to buy bottled water. You can also buy "mineral" water in the towns (not included in the price), but as you know, it has a poor environmental performance. So we do not recommend it.
Besides, glacier meltwater contains no mineral salts, which is partly compensated for by the soups and other meals you will be eating. But if you only drink tea or coffee made from glacier meltwater, or just water in your water bottles, over a long expedition, youwill hydrate less well, risk gastric problems and, ultimately, deficiencies that will tire the body. To counter this problem, it is a good idea to pack mineral tablets in your luggage at some point, to supplement your water bottle. Two or three tubes of ten tablets are all you need.
Transfers / Transport
All transfers are by private vehicle.
For a number of reasons, we trek to reach base camp: the progression designed for acclimatization allows you to prepare yourself physically and psychologically for the ascent. It is also the ideal time to get to know the team and start building a sense of team spirit and cohesion.
The return journey is also planned as a trek. However, for an additional charge, you can also take the helicopter on the return journey.
Group size
The group is composed of 1 to 10 participants maximum. The number of participants is deliberately limited to allow for greater immersion, to avoid embarrassing our hosts, and to develop freedom and flexibility. However, the maximum number may be exceeded if the last person to register wishes to travel with one or more other people. The services will not be modified, and the conditions of the trip will remain the same.
Equipment
COLLECTIVE EQUIPMENT
All logistical equipment is provided, including individual tents at base camp with mattresses, mess tent, shower tent and toilet tent, as well as all collective and individual cooking equipment. At altitude, tents, stoves with gas cartridges, ropes and anchors.
INDIVIDUAL EQUIPEMENT
Personal equipment is not provided.
An initial packing list is provided below in this document. Once your booking is confirmed, this list will be refined to best prepare you for your expedition.
For reference, we offer technical equipment for rental, for example (please contact us for specific needs):
- Full down suit Valandre 8000 -30°C: from €240 for your expedition (deposit of €1200, not cashed if paid by cheque)
- Thor Neo Valandre down sleeping bag -30°C: €150 to €200 depending on the rental duration (deposit of €1000, not cashed if paid by cheque)
- Valandre down jacket -30°C: €110 to €140 depending on the rental duration (deposit of €700, not cashed if paid by cheque)
- Valandre down salopettes -30°C: €110 to €140 depending on the rental duration (deposit of €700, not cashed if paid by cheque)
- 8000 mountaineering boots (subject to available sizes): €160 for your expedition (deposit of €800, not cashed if paid by cheque)
SECURITY AND COMMUNICATION
We have a minimum of one Iridium satellite phone for the group, which is used for logistical, weather and safety purposes only. Under certain conditions, participants may make use of it. For private use, please contact us.
The camps will be permanently linked by radio. Expedition leader, participants and high-altitude sherpas will also be able to use them.
The expedition will have a full pharmacy, though lighter, at the upper camps.
You are provided with a Garmin InReach device, allowing you to communicate with your community at your convenience with unlimited messaging during the expedition, and enabling them to track you live if you wish.
We also provide a satellite phone so you can contact the Ifremmont medical hotline if necessary.
For this electronic equipment, which we provide free of charge, we require a deposit of €1500 by credit card/bank transfer (charged and refunded upon return of the equipment in the same condition as provided). Return shipping costs to the agency are at your expense.
In addition, at the time of writing, all participants are free to bring any systems they have. We just need to be able to declare them to our contacts, so please let us know in advance.
Please note: in order to preserve the serenity of this expedition and the privacy of the participants, we ask you not to communicate with the general public during the expedition. You are, however, free to send information about yourself to your private sphere. By registering for this program, you accept this essential clause to protect the privacy of other participants in a project of this scale, where important issues of image, physical risk and financial considerations (sponsors, etc.) are at stake.
Our commitments to sustainable development
Our commitment to a better planet has been a reality since the beginning of our story but we always need to do more and better. Please find out more about our charter and our commitments in terms of sustainable development. We have drafted our charter and take action through six themes on which we act as concretely as possible, most often with you: social equity and cultural respect, preservation of water, waste management in expedition, protection of biodiversity, raise public awareness on these subjects and finally, the optimization and recovery of CO2 emissions.
Regarding carbon emissions, most of which are due to air travel, we calculated and communicated in 2018 on the carbon footprint of each of our programs, expressed in tonnes of CO2.
And in 2022, we have set ourselves a carbon reduction target that we believe is unprecedented in the tourism industry, aiming to reduce the total emissions of our activity by 5% per year, taking 2019 as the reference year (3,430 tonnes of CO2). This commitment is in line with the trajectory of the Paris climate agreements of 2015, the current benchmark. By 2030, we aim to not exceed 2,160 tons of CO2. In 2024, all Secret Planet journeys emitted 2,064 tons, well below our maximum limit of 2,940 tons. The ceiling for 2025 is 2,800 tons, and in 2026 it will be further reduced to 2,660 tons. And so on until 2030. To find out more about all of our calculations and our commitments in terms of reducing our carbon emissions.
In addition, since 2019, we have been encouraging you when you book for your journey to contribute with a donation to an independent NGO, among the two we have selected that share the commitments made in our charter. We matched the amount of this donation to this program's carbon footprint. Thus, the journey you are considering generates 3,62 tons of CO2, which corresponds to a 100% donation of €109 for an estimated value today of €30 per tonne of CO2. This donation remains of course optional and you can decide to give between nothing and 100% of this amount. Since 2019, including covid years of 2020 and 2021, we have been able to collect thanks to you nearly €5,500 for these associations.
Please do not hesitate to come back to us with any questions you might have regarding this carbon footprint mechanism, our other sustainable développement commitments or even to share with us your experience through a chat or a mail at contact@secret-planet.com.
Departures and pricing
Please find below all dates and prices for this expedition. Prices are quoted "from" and may be adjusted notably according to the number of participants (see trip notes for details). Please note that dates and prices for years beyond 2024, when given, are for guidance only and are subject to change and readjustment to take account of current economic realities.
No date works for me!
I initiate a new datePrice includes
- Pre-expedition training weekend (practical and medical preparation)
- Welcome and farewell dinners in Kathmandu
- Two nights in a 3/4-star hotel in Kathmandu (single occupancy) with breakfast
- Private airport transfers in Kathmandu
- Full-board accommodation in lodges or expedition tents throughout the trek
- All food supplies for Base Camp and the climbing period
- Porter services for personal equipment during the trek
- Complete Base Camp infrastructure, including a fully equipped kitchen tent, heated dining tent, tables and chairs, toilet tent, and shower tent
- Dedicated Base Camp cook and kitchen assistant
- Expedition kitchen and dining facilities shared by participants and the Nepalese support team
- High-altitude tents, climbing food, stoves, and fuel for the ascent
- Insurance coverage for the high-altitude Sherpas (medical expenses, evacuation, hospitalization, and life insurance), as well as for the cook and kitchen staff
- One experienced French Expedition Leader for groups of six participants or more. For smaller groups, the expedition is led by an experienced Nepalese Expedition Leader, whose role may be fulfilled by the most senior high-altitude Sherpa (see above)
- One experienced Sirdar responsible for coordinating the Nepalese support team
- One high-altitude Sherpa per participant, carrying climbing equipment and high-altitude supplies while providing individual support during the ascent
- All collective climbing equipment, including fixed ropes and anchors
- One two-way radio for each climbing team (participant and high-altitude Sherpa)
- Equipment allowances, wages, accommodation, and meals for the cook and kitchen staff
- One satellite phone at Base Camp (reserved for emergency use)
- Solar charging facilities at Base Camp for small electronic devices such as mobile phones and cameras (not suitable for charging laptops)
- All climbing permits, government fees, fixed rope fees, environmental taxes, and refundable waste management deposits
- Professional weather forecasting support throughout the expedition
- 24/7 expedition medical support provided by Ifremmont throughout the expedition
- Live expedition tracking for your family, friends, or community, including the provision and configuration of an InReach, Iridium GO!, and the LivExplorer tracking platform
Price does not include
- International flights
- Nepal visa fees
- Any customs duties payable upon arrival in Nepal
- Any taxes or import fees related to satellite phones, professional communication equipment, or commercial film production
- Additional hotel nights in Kathmandu beyond the two included in the itinerary
- Any helicopter transfers
- Meals in Kathmandu other than breakfasts, the welcome dinner, and the farewell dinner
- Expenses related to the early return of the expedition or of certain members only (early success, abandonment, etc.), generating costs for accommodation, meals, changes to air tickets or other activities not provided for in this program
- Expenses related to a shift in the expedition schedule (extra nights' accommodation and meals, additional airfares)
- A US$1,000 summit bonus for your high-altitude Sherpa, payable locally after the expedition, regardless of whether the summit is reached
- Gratuities for the Nepalese team (allow approximately US$250 per participant)
- Personal satellite phone communications (payable locally)
- The personalized pre-acclimatization program developed with Ifremmont and Sport Altitude (assessment, recommendations, monitoring, and equipment), as described above
- Personal clothing and individual mountaineering equipment
- Rental of personal high-altitude equipment (subject to availability)
- Any additional oxygen cylinders that may be required (approximately US$500 per cylinder, payable locally and subject to availability)
- Personalized physical and/or mental preparation with a specialist coach from Sport Altitude, including the pre-acclimatization protocol developed with Ifremmont, as described above
- Beverages and all personal expenses (private sightseeing, taxis, souvenirs, laundry, etc.)
- Personal travel and expedition insurance, including emergency assistance, evacuation, and repatriation coverage
Customized expedition
Bring your expedition to life—designed to match your ambition.
Does one of our existing expedition almost align with your objective? We can tailor it precisely: adjust the duration, refine the level of commitment, integrate specific goals (scientific, athletic, audiovisual production), adapt the logistics, or strengthen supervision and safety measures. This approach is built on proven terrain in order to create an expedition fully aligned with your goals.
Is your project unique and unlike anything that we currently offer? We design fully custom expeditions. This is no longer about adapting an existing program, but about building a complete project based on your constraints, your level of engagement, your objectives, and the realities of the field. Remote environments, extreme conditions, complex logistics, or specific projects (exploration, filming, scientific missions, personal challenges): every expedition is designed with precision and uncompromising standards.
For over 15 years, Expeditions Unlimited has been designing and operating expeditions worldwide—across all regions, environments, and activities—for individuals and corporate projects alike. Our field expertise ensures reliable systems, robust logistics, and controlled management of demanding environments.
Because every project is unique, our commitment is clear: to support you in designing and executing a safe, fully realized expedition that truly reflects your ambition.
Learn more about our custom expedition approach.
Tell us about your project
A few details are enough to get started. One of our experts will contact you within 48 hours to better understand your needs and propose a tailored approach.
FAQ
What does the D technical grade mean concretely on the Ama Dablam route?
The D (Difficult) alpine grade is comparable to traversing the Meije in the Alps. On this route, it translates to rock passages up to grade V and snow and ice slopes inclined between 40 and 60°. Altitude, wind and cold substantially amplify these demands: a movement that feels controlled at 2000 m requires a very different level of precision and effort management above 6000 m.
What mountaineering experience is expected, and what documents are required at registration?
A solid background in high-altitude mountaineering is essential: proficiency in glacier travel, autonomous use of safety equipment (crampons, ice axe, fixed ropes, harness), and at least one night spent above 5000 m. A prior expedition in the Himalayas or the Andes above 5500 m is the standard expected before undertaking this programme. At registration, a detailed mountaineering CV and a medical certificate of fitness for high-altitude exertion are required. Depending on the applicant's profile, an exercise stress test or hypoxia assessment may be recommended.
What does the technical and medical preparation weekend included in the programme cover?
This preparatory weekend, included in the programme fee, covers both technical and physiological aspects of the expedition. It is used to review skills in alpine terrain: progression on fixed ropes, self-arrest, use of high-altitude equipment. It also addresses the effects of altitude on the body and the warning signs to monitor. It also gives group members the opportunity to meet before departure.
How is acclimatisation structured across the 31 days of the programme?
Acclimatisation is built on a gradual gain in altitude and two successive summits. After arriving in Kathmandu (1300 m) and trekking through Namche (3440 m) and Tengboche (3860 m), Lobuche East (6119 m) is climbed on days 10 and 11 as a dedicated acclimatisation summit. The team then moves to Ama Dablam Base Camp at 4600 m to begin two rotation cycles in the high camps before the summit push.
What role does the Lobuche East ascent play in the overall programme strategy?
Lobuche East (6119 m) is climbed before the Ama Dablam attempt as a full acclimatisation summit in its own right, not simply as a high-altitude trekking point. Crossing the 6000 m threshold in technically less demanding terrain optimises the body's physiological response to altitude and reduces the risk of acute mountain sickness during rotations on the main objective.
How do the rotations and summit push on Ama Dablam unfold?
A first rotation climbs to camps 1 (5800 m) and 2 (6100 m) before returning to base camp to recover. The second rotation is the summit push: it moves through camps 1, 2 and 3 (6400 m) to reach the summit at 6812 m. The highest sleeping altitude on this programme is above 5500 m. Weather buffer days are built into the schedule to absorb delays caused by conditions.
How is weather routing integrated into expedition management?
A European weather routing service sends regular forecasts to the team at base camp throughout the expedition. This data is used to identify the optimal weather window for the summit push and to adjust movements between camps. Communication relies on an Iridium satellite phone, walkie-talkies, and real-time tracking via Garmin InReach.
What technically distinguishes the Ama Dablam route from other peaks at the same grade?
Ama Dablam combines three types of terrain on a single route: rock (passages up to grade V), snow and ice (slopes between 40 and 60°), and exposed mixed sections at high altitude. The route follows a narrow, aesthetic ridge that maintains constant exposure in the upper mountain, making it more demanding mentally than a classic snow couloir at an equivalent grade.
Where are the most committing sections on the Ama Dablam route?
The most technical sections are concentrated between camps 2 (6100 m) and 3 (6400 m): exposed mixed terrain and high-altitude rock, compounded by wind and cold. Fixed ropes are installed on the key sections of the route, but progress remains technical and requires full command of high-altitude equipment. The D grade is not theoretical on this programme: it accurately reflects what participants will encounter in the upper part of the route.
What might surprise a climber attempting Ama Dablam for the first time?
The main surprise is the sustained and continuous exposure along the route. Unlike many Himalayan climbs at an equivalent grade where technical sections are short and separated by long stretches of glacial walking, Ama Dablam demands concentrated technical focus from camp 2 to the summit. Altitude slows down muscle memory: techniques learned in training must be fully automated to remain effective at 6400 m and above.
What is the guiding setup for this programme?
This programme assigns one high-altitude Sherpa per participant, one of the highest guiding ratios in Himalayan mountaineering. For groups of six participants and above, a French expedition leader is appointed to coordinate the full team in the field. For smaller groups, an experienced Nepali manager takes on this coordination role. High-altitude Sherpas are responsible for camp installation and individual technical support on the route.
What medical support is included in this programme?
The Ifremmont medical hotline, available 24 hours a day, is included in the programme and provides specialist altitude medicine advice at any point during the expedition. Base camp is equipped with an Iridium satellite phone and a Garmin InReach for two-way communication and live tracking. In an emergency, helicopter evacuation can be arranged from the valleys below, but evacuation costs remain the participant's responsibility and must be covered by travel insurance taken out before departure.
What does the programme provide, and what remains the participant's responsibility?
The programme covers individual tents at base camp with comfortable mattresses, a heated mess tent, sanitary facilities, high-altitude tents, fixed ropes, collective climbing hardware and full porterage logistics. Personal high-altitude equipment remains the participant's responsibility: double boots, crampons, harness, ice axe and technical clothing for extreme cold. 8000m suits, high-altitude boots and sleeping bags are available to rent (€150 to €240 per item). Sherpa summit bonuses (approximately USD 1,000 per guide), porter tips (approximately USD 250 per participant) and optional supplemental oxygen (USD 500) are not included in the programme fee.
Why combine Ama Dablam and Lobuche East in a single programme rather than targeting Ama Dablam alone?
Lobuche East (6119 m) is not an optional add-on: it is designed as a full summit objective that structures the acclimatisation process. Climbing a technical peak above 6000 m before tackling Ama Dablam turns the approach into a structured progression, reduces the risk of altitude sickness and improves the chances of success on the main objective. The combination also represents two significant alpine achievements within a 31-day programme.
What objectives does this programme naturally lead to in a high-altitude progression?
Mastery of exposed mixed terrain and experience on two Himalayan summits above 6000 m provide a solid foundation for 7000 m objectives such as Baruntse (7129 m) in the Himalayas. For a climber planning a first 8000 m peak, this programme builds the technical and physiological background needed before attempting Manaslu (8163 m) or Cho Oyu (8188 m), both considered accessible with a strong high-altitude track record.
Explore all our ascents in the Himalayas
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Ascension de l'Ama Dablam à 6812 mètres et de l'Island Peak à 6189 mètres
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