Expeditions Unlimited blog
Expedition Unlimited has become a major player in high mountain climbing worldwide, notably following the development of its 8000 meter offering. After the Everest and Manaslu expeditions, it is to Makalu that we will head in spring 2024. For all our expeditions, we benefit from 24/7 medical assistance and weather routing, based in Europe and among the most reputable in their respective fields. For those wishing to prepare for this expedition or simply climb a summit above 6000 meters in the Andes or the Himalayas, here are some of our 2023 departures.
January 2023, winter is the best season for the highest summit on the continent: Aconcagua. For the other summits of the Andes (Peru, Bolivia, Chile), summer is the preferred season.
Ascent of Aconcagua 6962 meters, the roof of the Americas, departure January 21
This mythical summit of almost 7000 meters, the highest point in South America, presents no particular technical difficulty via the normal route. It is part of the "7 Summits" challenge, which accounts for its popularity and attracts mountaineers from all over the world. Due to its location at the tip of the southern hemisphere where the climate is particularly dry, the route is free of snow most of the time. The north-west ridge constitutes the normal ascent route to the summit. The main difficulty lies in the very high altitude and the often extremely violent wind that sweeps across the summit.
Ascent of Aconcagua © Yves Bernet
The 6000 meter peaks of spring in Nepal, the opportunity to see the rhododendrons in bloom and to stop by and greet the climbers at Everest base camp, it is also the best time to climb Everest and Lhotse.
Ascent of Island Peak at 6189 m and high passes of Everest, departure March 23
We climb Island Peak at 6189 meters, which requires some mountaineering knowledge. The passage along the final ridge and the arrival at the summit allow us to dominate this incredible ocean of mountains. Everest, Makalu, Lhotse, as well as Baruntse and Ama Dablam surround us. We acclimatise beforehand by trekking via the high passes (Renjo, Cho La and Kongma La), which takes us through Gokyo Ri, Kala Pattar and Everest base camp. Six crossings above 5000 meters. Flawless acclimatisation before reaching the finest viewpoint in the region that is Island Peak.
Ascent of Island Peak at 6189 m in the Everest region © Luc Oberli
Ascent of Mera Peak at 6461 meters, departure April 16
Mera Peak (6461 m) is the highest trekking peak in Nepal. The ascent presents no real difficulty. It is a snow climb on moderate slopes. After reaching Lukla, the starting point of our trek, we arrive at a valley situated to the east of the Dudh Kosi "the milk river" which winds at the foot of some of the most beautiful mountains in the Khumbu such as Kusum Kanguru and Kangtega. We then reach the Mera La pass (5415 m) with, as a backdrop, our objective: the summit of Mera Peak.
Ascent of Mera Peak at 6461 m in the Everest region © Luc Oberli
Summer is the season for 6000 meter and 7000 meter summits in Ladakh (Kang Yatse) and Central Asia (Pic Lenin and Mustagh Ata), but we offer here a brand new project, guided by Serge Bazin.
Ascent of Pic Korzhenevskaya at 7105 meters, departure July 22
The ascent of Pic Korzhenevskaya (known as Pic Ozodi since 2020) is slightly more difficult than that of Pic Lenin. But it takes place in a magnificent setting, in the heart of the Pamir mountains, in the Academy of Sciences range. Located a short distance from Pic Ismail Somoni (formerly Pic du Communisme), the highest summit of the former USSR at 7495 m, Korzhenevskaya is a remarkable objective. Before tackling its slopes, we complete the ascent of Pic Vorobiova (5691 m), a viewpoint directly facing Pic du Communisme. A magnificent expedition, a prelude to other great adventures, guided by Serge Bazin with whom we are embarking on a five-year cycle around the Snow Leopard challenge, the ascent of the five highest summits of the former Soviet Union, all located between Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan.
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Ascent of Korzhenevskaya in Tajikistan © Jean-François Descat & Julien Delteil
Autumn in Nepal! Autumn is the season for Manaslu but also for other 6000 and 7000 meter summits. In particular Ama Dablam and Himlung Himal.
Ascent of Ama Dablam in Nepal at 6812 meters, departure October 14
We set off for one of the most beautiful summits in the world, the one that countless mountaineers and trekkers have gazed upon during expeditions or treks in the Khumbu region: Ama Dablam. All have dreamed of it, and its soaring summit pyramid has left more than a few in awe. At 6812 meters, Ama Dablam represents a holy grail for experienced mountaineers, and its ascent must be earned.
Ama Dablam base camp in Nepal © Bruno Serraz
Ascent of Himlung Himal in Nepal at 7126 meters, departure October 1
In a small group, we set off to tackle Himlung Himal, a beautiful 7000 meter summit. Its ascent requires some experience of high-altitude expeditions and technical mountaineering skills at a "slightly difficult" level on snow. Himlung Himal is therefore the ideal summit for discovering high altitude. The approach march offers a fine trek. Our itinerary has been improved to better explore the region and allow for gentle acclimatisation. Our stay in the village of Phu will allow us to immerse ourselves in the way of life of the high Himalayan valleys of Tibetan culture.
Ascent of Himlung Himal © Nicolas Salvi
Find out more :
Climb Aconcagua at 6962 meters standard route in Argentina
Climb Korzhenevskoi Peak at 7105 meters in Tajikistan
